Tuesday, June 3, 2014
Day Four: Akerretta
Day Three Saint Jean to Roncevalles
This day is known to most as the hardest walk of the entire Camino. That is quite intimidating to anyone, but you have to begin sometime and we did with Jodi, our Aussie friend we met in our hostel. We passed the mother daughter from California just as we crossed under the Spanish gate out of the old city and began the walk up. It was cloudy but not raining at the start. We had very pretty, misty views back into the valleys of France. Our walking pace got us to Hunto and Orrison rather quickly, so we stopped here for a coffee and the last restroom break before the end of the day. By this point it was lightly raining and we put on our rain jackets and continued up into the mist and clouds.
I am sure the views from this area are gorgeous, but we saw nothing but white 40 feet all around. This made for very little reason to stop and everyone was feeling very good so we kept going and got into an area of significant wind and mud. At its start was a food truck giving stamps and offering food and hot drinks for sale. We all were getting cold and could really have used the warmth, but we went on. Soon the trail leveled into a very muddy road and crossed over into Navarra and Spain at the fountain of Roland. By this point there were about 10 of us all picking our way through the mud. Soon we began to see better and our Irish trio from Dublin passed us and made sure we followed the safer, less muddy way going down. This ended up being part road and part trail, but Roncevalles soon came in view as the sky cleared a bit and we could see the monastery and alberge. They have built a new very modern albergue here and it was amazing how nice it is. Dutch hospitaleros were volunteering and we soon got our bunks and showered and washed clothes. Also we went into the old alberge that is still set up as on large dorm room for overflow. For dinner, we had the pilgrim menu at La Posada, the restaurant that was used in the movie as the first alberge. It was a community dinner with a Catalan couple and our Aussie compadre. Soon we went to mass and received the pilgrim's blessing as millions before have as they started the pilgrimage in Spain. The priest then kindly gave all of us a tour of the crypt and the cloisters and the choir loft and finished the tour with a short video a pilgrim stating there had just made of his camino. Soon though we dragged ourselves back up to our beds and quickly went to sleep.
I was so proud of how David did and how he talked so much with Jodi. It was fun to walk slightly ahead and listen to them talk about cultures and other topics. She is a psychologist that had a family wedding in late June in Paris, so decided to walk to Burgos on the Camino. She has been good company and David seems to enjoy the friendship.
Monday, June 2, 2014
Day Two: Saint Jean
Today was our day to overcome jet lag and we did it by getting up and walking all over St Jean. This picture is the view from our hostel. We went to the pilgrim's office and got our starting stamp in the credential we must carry with us showing we are pilgrims. This has to be stamped each day in the places you eat, sleep, or go to church. Next we got a knife and the scallop shells that are the traditional symbol of the pilgrim. And then we walked all over town touring the citadel, museum. And other sights here. They are very proud of their Basque history, so we saw many signs of that around. Tomorrow is our hardest day so we are going to sleep now to wake early. We are both very eager to begin.
Sunday, June 1, 2014
Day One: Paris and Saint Jean Pied du Port
Our adventure began as most of ours do; at the airport in Atlanta. We decided to have lunch at the Varsity and Pei Wei, both foods we do not expect to find on the Camino. We then spent the time sitting in the outdoor lounge getting sun and earth before the flight. Everything went off without a hitch and we were several movies later in Paris at the CDG airport. Here we got our train tickets to start one of the many rides to get to our destination. Our first train took us into the heart of Paris And our first stop at Notre Dame cathedral. Here we got the pilgrim's stamp in our credential. Next we walked along the Seine river to the Louvre and saw the glass pyramid and outside of the enormous museum. The day was perfect: sunny and just the right temperature for walking. Bayonne. 
Next stop was the Eiffel Tower, where a huge line had already formed to go up. A tennis tournament was also taking place here, and they had a clay cout set up in the middle of the park and a giant tennis ball hanging from the tower. As we passed the military college, we stopped to have breakfast of croissants and cafe au lait in a sidewalk cafe called the Cafe des les officers. A short walk from there was Napoleon's grave and the museum that surrounds it. But our final destination was the Gare Parnassee where we caught the TGV tran to Bayonne.
These trains are very comfortable and we began snoozing and reading and looking at the passing scenery. On e we reached Bayonne, we took a bus the hour and a half to St Jean. This is a quiet, tourist town aimed at the pilgrims. Our hostel, the Gite Ultreia, has lovely host. We are getting good nights rest and then plan to expire. 
Friday, May 30, 2014
Thoughts on leaving for a second Camino
We got our packs loaded last night and ran through the checklists again to make sure we had everything and had taken care of all the home to-do items before leaving for Spain. It is morning now and I am drinking my cup of coffee from the mug covered with the sellos from my first Camino with Caroline back in 2008. This mug in one way holds all the memories of the past and the hopes for our next adventure.
I have thought alot about how a second pilgrimage is going to be different from a first. Much of the trip will be new experiences, but some will be walking again in the footsteps of our trip before and yet it will all be new for David. If I compare him to Caroline, I realize he is much more prepared for this. Maybe not physically, but he knows now what the walking is like, what a refugio is, and he has seen The Way and other documentaries enough to have a good familiarity with the expectations and trials he is likely to find.
On my account, I have tried to learn from our first pilgrimage to take the time up front to get rest and to not make too many plans.
Also the second Camino with a second child is going to build a relationship that I cherish more than anything. We are so lucky to get this chance to spend time with our kids and share in something that will have an impact on their lives for the future.
I am older, tired-er, but hopefully wiser than last time. This cup of coffee is kind of a symbol of the second Camino for me; held in the expectations of my first trip is a warm, fresh experience to be enjoyed.
Please pray for us.
I have thought alot about how a second pilgrimage is going to be different from a first. Much of the trip will be new experiences, but some will be walking again in the footsteps of our trip before and yet it will all be new for David. If I compare him to Caroline, I realize he is much more prepared for this. Maybe not physically, but he knows now what the walking is like, what a refugio is, and he has seen The Way and other documentaries enough to have a good familiarity with the expectations and trials he is likely to find.
On my account, I have tried to learn from our first pilgrimage to take the time up front to get rest and to not make too many plans.
Also the second Camino with a second child is going to build a relationship that I cherish more than anything. We are so lucky to get this chance to spend time with our kids and share in something that will have an impact on their lives for the future.
I am older, tired-er, but hopefully wiser than last time. This cup of coffee is kind of a symbol of the second Camino for me; held in the expectations of my first trip is a warm, fresh experience to be enjoyed.
Please pray for us.
Wednesday, May 28, 2014
Packing and Repacking
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| All this has got to fit in the packs? |
Well, the basement is cluttered with all our gear to be taken and not taken. We have reviewed everything, weighed everything, washed everything, and tested most everything to make sure it will work well. Our packs weigh about 13 pounds without water. This seems like a good weight that will allow us to walk easier and not struggle, given the distances we are covering.
The final few preparations are pretty much done. Now to just get to Europe...
A word of thanks to all those that have wished us good luck. We will pray for you along the Way.
-Len
Below is my gearlist:
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| Clothes |
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| Footwear |
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| Hygiene & wash |
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| Medicine/dressings |
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| Papers |
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| Other |
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| Electronics |
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| Food & drink |
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This is based on the packing spreadsheet provided at the Camino de Santiago Forum. You can find it here.
-Len
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Monday, May 26, 2014
A Blessing from Father Dye and our last (first) practice hike
Today, we went into the north Georgia mountains for a short hike to test our packs and shoes. Caroline and Irene joined us for a walk along the Amicalola River. Except for the spring rain shower everything went well and we met our friends the Priedes for a fantastic BBQ lunch. The rest of this week will be spent with final details till we pack up and head to the airport.
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