Day Eight: Logroño and a farewell to friends.

Today was the hottest day we have had and that was even with an early start. Six of us began before the sun was even proving much light on the sky, but the air was col and it was easy to walk. We quickly began going through quaint towns like Sonbol and Torres del Rio

where we had a coffee and got supplies for lunch. Much of the rest of the day was walking in farmland.

This is why as the temperature creeps up, the sun can become unbearable. We stopped in Viana for our homemade lunch of a chorizo bocadillo and fruit and cold coke. Maria cookies made a great dessert. 

Soon we were being beaten on again by the sun but able to make it to Logroño. 

Here we get our car and will leave our pilgrim family and move forward to Astorga. Craig, Bowde, Dom and Ben have been great traveling companions. We hate to see our crossed paths end as they continue on and we move to a different part of the Camino. 

Day Seven: Los Arcos and the bulls

So what do you get on a hot day in a sleepy town on the Camino? Well we were lucky enough to be in Los Arcos on the day that the bulls are run through town. It was a warm day leaving Estella and it only got hotter. For some reason the sun here really takes a toll and you have little shade to be able to get away from the blistering effects. David's new hat is protecting his face and ears better, but sunscreen still cannot seem to keep it away. We all are burned. As we entered Los Arcos we saw the big barranca idea that were up at each door and I asked a woman why they were there. She said they have a running of bulls that evening and we should come and watch.

Once we check into the municipal albergue and get a 4 reason room with Don and Ben, the Ohio father son we are walking with, we head to town to walk around and see where is best for watching. The church here is amazingly ornate and beautiful inside. We walked in with others behind a barrack to await the start of the event. 

Three bulls were released and they ran the roads for over and hour. Amazingly only one person got hurt. 

Soon after we are in a restaurant and sat out at the albergue talking till time for bed. It was so hot we planned a 5:30 start in the morning. 

How is the second time different?

It has been interesting to compare my two Caminos so far. Much is similar, but much is different:

Americans- There are significantly more Americans on the Camino this year. Where before we were the minority, this time you can not stop without meeting new Americans. Today we met Phillip that went to OLA and Marist. What are the odds of that? It has made this a bit harder to spend time only with Europeans. 

Albergues- David and I have stayed in several Albergues this time that have been very basic and crowded. The first time, Caroline and I were fortunate enough to not stay at one of these, but it has also given a good perspective on what we do have and to be thankful for it. 

Youth- on our first Camino, Caroline at 16  was one of the youngest pilgrims on the Camino. Now, we just were passed by a 12 year old boy today and a 13 year old girl. There are also several parent child teams out this time of various ages. 

Similarities: People are still struggling each day and many walk slower and slower. It is still hot in the sun and you still make great friendships. Your clothes still get dirty and you have to wash them. 

You will also still find it can change your life. 

Day Six: Estella

It was hard to leave such a nice alberge, but the morning was cool and beautiful when a group of six of us Americans and Boude, a Dutch guy that has joined our group headed out. He is great. 

The area is becoming more farmland, with small towns every once in awhile. We stopped for breakfast at a panaderia. The  day was sunny and became very hot quickly. We were laughing and talking the whole time. It was so sunny that we were very tired when we arrived in Estrella. We found new sunscreen and blister packs, a new hat for David and a great dinner on the river in the old part of the city. 

At mass the priest gave a special pilgrim prayer to us. 

Day Five: Cizur Menor

Today's walk took us into Pamplona and made us many new friends. From wilderness to suburbs to the old city, we saw many changes. We met a mother and daughter from Valdosta that were doing the camino for a high school graduation gift. We also met a very nice Spanish man that took David under his wing and led us all the way to the city wall. He even took pictures with David. In the city we toured the cathedral and bought a Mobile card so we could use our phone. It had lightly rained the entire time, but stopped as we got Pinxas for lunch and began the walk out to our albergue. It was very basic and run by Maltese Templar volunteers. We went to mass in the small church in Cizur Menor and had dinner with another Atlantan and a German woman living in California. We also met up with Craig, a guy from the camino forum that had connected me before we left. Many new friends have made their way into our lives. 

Day Four: Akerretta

Ok I've procrastinated long enough about writing this entry. Today I was rudely awakened at around 5:30 after a fitful sleep next to one of the loudest snorers I have ever heard.

Our hike definitely was longer than yesterday, but a lot more enjoyable with small villages that looked like they came straight out of a fairy tale.

I now feel like a 80 year old now that my knees ache and it's a struggle just to stand up. I'm definitely tired, but happy to be here and eager to learn more about the region.

Day Three Saint Jean to Roncevalles

This day is known to most as the hardest walk of the entire Camino. That is quite intimidating to anyone, but you have to begin sometime and we did with Jodi, our Aussie friend we met in our hostel. We passed the mother daughter from California just as we crossed under the Spanish gate out of the old city and began the walk up.  It was cloudy but not raining at the start. We had very pretty, misty views back into the valleys of France. Our walking pace got us to Hunto and Orrison rather quickly, so we stopped here for a coffee and the last restroom break before the end of the day. By this point it was lightly raining and we put on our rain jackets and continued up into the mist and clouds. 

I am sure the views from this area are gorgeous, but we saw nothing but white 40 feet all around. This made for very little reason to stop and everyone was feeling very good so we kept going and got into an area of significant wind and mud. At its start was a food truck giving stamps and offering food and hot drinks for sale. We all were getting cold and could really have used the warmth, but we went on.  Soon the trail leveled into a very muddy road and crossed over into Navarra and Spain at the fountain of Roland. By this point there were about 10 of us all picking our way through the mud. Soon we began to see better and our Irish trio from Dublin passed us and made sure we followed the safer, less muddy way going down. This ended up being part road and part trail, but Roncevalles soon came in view as the sky cleared a bit and we could see the monastery and alberge. They have built a new very modern albergue here and it was amazing how nice it is. Dutch hospitaleros were volunteering and we soon got our bunks and showered and washed clothes. Also we went into the old alberge that is still set up as on large dorm room for overflow. For dinner, we had the pilgrim menu at La Posada, the restaurant that was used in the movie as the first alberge. It was a community dinner with a Catalan couple and our Aussie compadre. Soon we went to mass and received the pilgrim's blessing as millions before have as they started the pilgrimage in Spain. The priest then kindly gave all of us a tour of the crypt and the cloisters and the choir loft and finished the tour with a short video a pilgrim stating there had just made of his camino. Soon though we dragged ourselves back up to our beds and quickly went to sleep. 

I was so proud of how David did and how he talked so much with Jodi. It was fun to walk slightly ahead and listen to them talk about cultures and other topics. She is a psychologist that had a family wedding in late June in Paris, so decided to walk to Burgos on the Camino. She has been good company and David seems to enjoy the friendship.