A Pilgrim Chapter in Atlanta?

I met today with Chris Sanders, a 2002 Pilgrim living here in Atlanta. We are discussing the idea of starting a chapter of the American Friends of the Camino to raise awareness about the Camino here in the metro Atlanta area.
Possible ideas include:

• Presentations to civic groups about the Camino and our experiences
• Promoting the Camino as a long distance hiking destination
• Providing consulting and advice for potential pilgrims from the Atlanta area
• Events for pilgrim alumni to gather and share
• Book exchange on the Camino

If you are interested in joining us or have suggestions, please respond to this post with your ideas and contact information. I have added a link to Chris' website because it is chock full of great information.

Multimedia of the Camino

Jono Lewis, a Welsh photojournalist that we met on the Camimo, has published a great multimedia presentation of the experiences of our fellow travelers. He did a marvelous job of capturing the essence of the experience through his images and interviews.

Here is a picture of him interviewing Caroline along the Way. I hope you will enjoy his work as much as we do. Plus, see if you find the photo of us...

http://www.jonathanlewisphoto.com/Assets/Multimedia/Camino_de_Santiago/index.html

276 Miles of Unexpected Learning on The Way

2nd period American Lit.

August 26, 2008


276 Miles of Unexpected Learning on The Way

As I was walking down a small narrow road with cow poop strewn across it I had an epiphany. After three weeks, I had finally realized why I was here and what I was supposed to learn from this “vacation gone insane”. Yes, I had learned how to fix a blister with only a needle and thread. Yes, I learned that one “magical” bar of soap can serve for more than four purposes: washing your body, washing your hair, washing your clothes, brushing your teeth, etc. But what I mostly learned about was: how to work hard, journaling, disappointments, relationships, and appreciation of the journey. By the end of my trip I had developed a motto for myself: “It does not matter where you are going or how quickly you get there. All that matters are the memories you made and the experiences you had on The Way.” As my father and I walked for three weeks on the Camino de Santiago in northern Spain this summer, I learned a great deal not just about hiking, but also about life.

The first thing I learned was hard work and the support of others. How can you not learn about hard work after hiking almost twenty miles a day? In the beginning, I am ashamed to say that I wanted to give up. By the third day I wanted to throw away my hiking boots and never set foot on a trail again. Because of jet lag and snoring in the albergues (hostels with giant rooms containing bunk beds and fifty of your closest, smelly friends), I had not been getting any sleep. Trying to hike many miles off of three hours of sleep at night is just not reasonable. Luckily I had my family, friends, and my whole parish church supporting and praying for me. Because the Camino de Santiago is a spiritual pilgrimage, all of the people at my church were reading my online journal and leaving me comments that inspired me to keep moving forward. I learned that you can do anything if you put your mind to it and put your trust in God to help you through.

The second thing I learned related to academics. I kept two journals, one handwritten and another online. From keeping these journals, I discovered that I should always use as much detail as possible because the reader wants to find out what is going on in your head at that very moment. After the trip I also learned that memories fade quickly. I now wish I had explained my thoughts more deeply and took note of everything, even if it seemed insignificant on that day. You are never too tired to write one journal entry, no matter how many Euros the pay-per-use internet computer costs or how late you think it is, because you will regret it later if you do not.

The third and most unfortunate thing I had to learn on this trip was how to accept disappointment. Throughout the trip our final destination had been the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, Spain. From the beginning, I had envisioned Santiago as a beautiful town and a refuge welcoming pilgrims at the end of their great journey. Unfortunately, when we got there it was not at all what I had expected or even wanted. Santiago was our goal and we were driving and fully focused on getting there. It became our aim and our obsession. But once we walked into the Plaza and up the steps and got past the excitement of our accomplishment, we were not prepared for such a let down. Santiago was primarily a tourist town. The cathedral, the pilgrimage, the statue of St. James, are all there for tourists. Even we pilgrims were part of the spectacle. I was very upset when I discovered this; I even cried when I got into the hotel room. As we discussed our frustrations my Dad taught me that there will be many disappointments in life, no matter what I expect or how hard I work.

The fourth thing I learned about was relationships. I took this camino with my father. It was the first time that we had ever spent more than just a couple pf days together by ourselves. Because of this trip the two of us now have a special bond that nothing will ever change. We learned each other’s habits and pet peeves, likes and dislikes. We left home close and left the Camino inseparable. My father and I also learned from each other, even if it was silly things. I learned from him how to loose a bet with a Welsh man, to buy him and the Welsh man a drink in Spanish, that it is possible to eat a whole ice cream cake in one sitting, and to never pass up the chance to take a picture of a stork’s nest in a church tower. From me he learned to say traffic light in Spanish, to always check to see if a fence is electrified before you try to go under it, to appreciate a windmill, and to make friends with all people in the clergy because you never know when a priest might give you a picture of himself when he was twenty years younger.

I developed relationships not just with my father, but with the other pilgrims around me. I learned that I had to be outgoing and introduce myself no matter if they spoke my language or not. People on the Camino were from all around the world; from South Africa to Japan to Slovenia. Pantomime became a great form of communication. We mostly formed deep relationships with the English speaking people though. After our hiking we would all go out to eat together and watch the Euro Cup soccer tournament. These people became my family on the Camino, calling ourselves “The Traveling Circus”.

The final and most important thing I learned on the Camino de Santiago is the appreciation of the journey. At the end of the trip, after 276 miles of joy, sadness, pain, disappointment, and laughter, I realized that I was on this journey for a reason. Not just so I could have a good time and eat new Spanish foods but to realize that it is the journey that matters. Before, I had been so focused on getting to Santiago that I forgot to “stop and smell the roses”. I realized that what makes a trip are the people you meet and the experiences you have, no matter what the destination.

Caroline

Lessons Learned

Here is my list of lessons learned having been home for 4 days and not been able to get the Camino off of my mind. I broke it into Personal and Practical (I am a gearie at heart).

Personal

• A joint Camino is not the same as an individual Camino- Caroline and I did this trip together. As a 16 year old, she was the second youngest person we met (one 13 year old from New Zealand was also doing it). I realized that our experience here was all about sharing the experience. We were not there to really figure out some deep personal issue that would tell us what we wanted to do with the rest of our life. We were not paying back a debt or penance to speak of for some big sin. (Caroline once said in her early frustration with the albergues, "I am 16! I have not sinned enough in my life yet to have to do this kind of penance!) You need to make sure that if you are traveling with one other person, or choose to travel with a partner for the whole trip, that you adjust your expectations. It will be less soul searching, and more bonding.
• Build in days for weather, rest, or to change groups- Most people plan a couple of days to rest or to sightsee in the bigger towns. But remember that somedays the weather may be so bad that it is advisable to just stay indoors. Or you find that you are traveling with a group of pilgrims that you can't related to well. One German friend described this as the "fog" you are in. He said he got into a group for awhile that he did not enjoy. He was surrounded by this fog of the same people talking about the same things. He took a rest day to change to a different group and for him it made all the difference. You may also find that you are in a very large group and that albergue space becomes difficult to find. This happened to us going to Finisterre. We were frustrated to find the Albergue completely full before 1:30 in the afternoon in Negreira. But friends that came through the next day, said that there was plenty of space. Rest a day and lose the crowds.
• Share!- This kind of crosses over the line a bit with several things, but create an environment where you share stuff with other pilgrims. We shared a washer with three other people once because none of us had enough clothes to fill it up. One man was so touched by being asked to do this, he repeatedly offered to buy me a coffee. Buy food together. Or medicine. Or soap. Just always think about doing things together and you will build many more relationships and enjoy the Camino much more.
• Talk/Eat- Along this same line is to break bread together and spend time talking to others. We had only two opportunities to share a hospitalero prepared meal, but these were great chances to talk to new people. We had several chances to cook with others and share a meal this way. And we went out to eat with others on a regular basis. These are the times you will cherish more than anything else. Take the time to talk and eat with others.
• Santiago will be a let down- Understand this up front. Santiago is your goal and you are driving and fully focussed on getting there. It becomes your aim and your obsession. You cry when you think that you may not make it. But once you walk into the Plaza and up the steps and get past the excitement of your accomplishment, be prepared. Santiago is primarily a tourist town. The cathedral, the pilgrimage, the botofumerio are all there for tourists. Even we pilgrims are part of the spectacle. It is the busloads of pilgrims from the US, Italy, Portugal, etc. that pay to have the botofunerio swung. They don't do it for the pilgrim mass unless someone pays. But as Caroline learned, the journey is the real goal, not Santiago. It is the trip not the final destination. If you realize this, you will make sure to slow down and enjoy the Way much more than the goal.

Practical

• Carry a light pack. I mean the pack itself. We both had packs under three pounds empty and most people we met had packs that must have weighed 5-6 lbs empty. The Camino does not require a pack that can go to Everest. Get an ultralight pack and you will be happier.
• Carry only what you will need for a week. Meaning consumables. No roll of toilet paper. One pilgrim suggested a pack of tissues. You can buy more in any tienda. Same for soap, etc. We kept trying to have enough for the three weeks we were there, but realized, everyone is right, you can buy more of anything you need.
• Clothes though are not always that easy to get. Caroline wanted to have an extra jacket because it was colder than we planned on. In Astorga, we hit every store that might possibly have a fleece jacket her size. After 2 hours, no luck. Just know for some items in the "performance clothing" area or if you are a small woman, they are not that easy to find.
• Take into account jet lag- we began walking the day after we arrived in Leon, and stayed in the Albergue to boot. Caroline didn't get a full night's sleep for 4 days, and it just about cost us the trip. Take jet lag and getting used to the new environment into account. Your first few days will be much more enjoyable.
• It will cost more than you expect- I had read the rule of thoumb that it would cost 1000 Euro for the entire Camino. Since we were doing half of it, I thought this was a good budget for us. I was wrong. I found we spent more of housing than planned and on food. Though you may plan to stay in Albergues the whole time, they may not always be available, so your 5Euro cost jumps to 15Euro is you share a room with someone.
• Altus Atmospheric ponchos are great!- I would recommend them to any pilgrim.
• No poles for me!- Though I am a big proponent of hiking poles and brought them on the trip, we almost never used them and they stayed on my pack most the trip. The terrain was not as rocky and steep as I expected and I was more prepared, plus wooden staffs are readily available. I would have loved to have gotten rid of the poles but it was too big of a hassle to send them to Santiago or home.
• Put suntan lotion on the backs of your arms!!! We pilgrims always walk west. We get the sun on our necks and the backs of our arms. True lesson learned.
• Internet time costs money- In the US, we do not regularly have coin operated PCs, so it was a bit of a shock to see how quickly you could burn some Euro on the Internet. At 1Euro for 30 minutes, we found it difficult to blog and check email, much less download photos. Budget accordingly.

And lastly, just consider doing something you never thought you could do. Like a pilgrimage; or a mission trip. Challenge yourself and hopefully your will enjoy the accomplishment of exceeding your expectations and the rewards the come from that. The average age of pilgrims on the Camino is probably 55. Don't think you are too old, or too busy to do something like this. We met a Dutchman in his sixties that was walking over 4000km; pulling a cart! I am sure Caroline will share her own relfections, but I hope that our pilgrimage and blog have entertained, enlightened, and inspired.

Thanks again.

We are Back Home

We are back in Atlanta now and finally starting to get our heads around not being on the Camino. The last three weeks seemed to have passed in a heartbeat, and now we are almost feeling like we are back from a dream. Our clothes don't smell any more (thank goodness) and most of the stuff is put back away in the camping room. I finally figured out how to get the slideshow option on Flickr to work so you can see our photos on the blog and Caroline is downloading more as we speak. The Compostelas and Finisteras (our official documents of completion) are being pressed in a picture book on the Camino Irene's aunt and uncle gave us last time we were in Spain. It was part of the inspiration for the trip and I could not imagine a better place to press out the curl from being in a tube.

Caroline and I took the dog for a walk last night and I felt that speed of motion that I had gotten used to. We joked when we passed her school on the way home from the airport that we walked at least that far everyday for almost three weeks, but now, we would never think of doing that here. It will take some time to get our heads around what doing this trip has meant to us and it's impact. But I am already yearning to walk somewhere, be able to talk to my daughter knowing that we are sharing something that no one can take away or ever fully be a part of.

When I got here I was truly amazed to find out how many people were reading this and interested in our trip. Thank you all for caring and for the prayers that made this possible and as wonderful of an experience as it was.


Stand at the crossroads and look, and ask for the ancient paths, where the good way lies, and walk in it and find rest for your souls. -Jeremiah 6-16

Our Last Day Here

We arrived back in Santiago yesterday after a three hour bus trip from Finisterre. When we got off the bus, I realized that it was the first time I had ever been in a bus station. We just don´t have those in Atlanta (or maybe we do and I just was missing out). On our way from the bus station into the city, I got to be navigator as we walked. You should be proud of me; I only got us lost twice and that was before my dad told me I was holding the map upside down.

After we got into the city, we went to the pilgrim´s mass in the cathedral. Luckily this time they swung the botofumeiro, or giant incense burner, which was really cool. They hoist it up on a thick rope that is attached to a pulley system on the ceiling of the church. It takes about 6 men to swing it. I was nervous that they were swinging it so high that it would hit the ceiling.

After mass, we went shopping for clothes to wear home on the airplane because we figured the people would not want to be smelling our sweaty clothes that have only been washed in a washer twice the whole trip. It was neat because the shopping mall had a BJ´s type store on the lower level and shops like a mall on the upper two levels. There was also a large courtyard in the middle.

Today we are going to go to the tomb of St. James and say a special prayer for the mission to Honduras because they have helped us with their prayers and we hope to help them with ours. We are so proud of all of those going on the mission and wish them safe travels and good spirits.

Caroline

Fisterre Day Two

Yesterday was picture perfect for us. We got up to a wonderful sunrise and found a hostel to stay in for the next two nights. We headed for a small deserted beach that we had all to ourselves. No one showed up until we were leaving. We walked the beach picking up shells and getting sun. We have farmer tans from the Camino; red necks and arms!

That evening we walked to the lighthouse at the end of the point and had a wonderful dinner in the converted observatory, thanks to our friends Martijn and Anita. It was a very welcome change from our menu del peregrino! Then we sat around to watch the sunset. We saw many friends from the trip there and several were carrying on the tradition of burning something to show the finality of the trip. One boy cut his long hair and burned that!

We walked down the deserted road with the moon rising to our backs. The entire trip we had not stayed awake long enough to see a sunset. This was the first time.

Today has turned cloudy and rainy. Not much to do in a beach town on that kind of day, but it is OK with us. We needed the rest and wanted to find some friends before we leave for Santiago tomorrow.