How is the second time different?

It has been interesting to compare my two Caminos so far. Much is similar, but much is different:

Americans- There are significantly more Americans on the Camino this year. Where before we were the minority, this time you can not stop without meeting new Americans. Today we met Phillip that went to OLA and Marist. What are the odds of that? It has made this a bit harder to spend time only with Europeans. 

Albergues- David and I have stayed in several Albergues this time that have been very basic and crowded. The first time, Caroline and I were fortunate enough to not stay at one of these, but it has also given a good perspective on what we do have and to be thankful for it. 

Youth- on our first Camino, Caroline at 16  was one of the youngest pilgrims on the Camino. Now, we just were passed by a 12 year old boy today and a 13 year old girl. There are also several parent child teams out this time of various ages. 

Similarities: People are still struggling each day and many walk slower and slower. It is still hot in the sun and you still make great friendships. Your clothes still get dirty and you have to wash them. 

You will also still find it can change your life. 

Day Six: Estella

It was hard to leave such a nice alberge, but the morning was cool and beautiful when a group of six of us Americans and Boude, a Dutch guy that has joined our group headed out. He is great. 

The area is becoming more farmland, with small towns every once in awhile. We stopped for breakfast at a panaderia. The  day was sunny and became very hot quickly. We were laughing and talking the whole time. It was so sunny that we were very tired when we arrived in Estrella. We found new sunscreen and blister packs, a new hat for David and a great dinner on the river in the old part of the city. 

At mass the priest gave a special pilgrim prayer to us. 

Day Five: Cizur Menor

Today's walk took us into Pamplona and made us many new friends. From wilderness to suburbs to the old city, we saw many changes. We met a mother and daughter from Valdosta that were doing the camino for a high school graduation gift. We also met a very nice Spanish man that took David under his wing and led us all the way to the city wall. He even took pictures with David. In the city we toured the cathedral and bought a Mobile card so we could use our phone. It had lightly rained the entire time, but stopped as we got Pinxas for lunch and began the walk out to our albergue. It was very basic and run by Maltese Templar volunteers. We went to mass in the small church in Cizur Menor and had dinner with another Atlantan and a German woman living in California. We also met up with Craig, a guy from the camino forum that had connected me before we left. Many new friends have made their way into our lives. 

Day Four: Akerretta

Ok I've procrastinated long enough about writing this entry. Today I was rudely awakened at around 5:30 after a fitful sleep next to one of the loudest snorers I have ever heard.

Our hike definitely was longer than yesterday, but a lot more enjoyable with small villages that looked like they came straight out of a fairy tale.

I now feel like a 80 year old now that my knees ache and it's a struggle just to stand up. I'm definitely tired, but happy to be here and eager to learn more about the region.

Day Three Saint Jean to Roncevalles

This day is known to most as the hardest walk of the entire Camino. That is quite intimidating to anyone, but you have to begin sometime and we did with Jodi, our Aussie friend we met in our hostel. We passed the mother daughter from California just as we crossed under the Spanish gate out of the old city and began the walk up.  It was cloudy but not raining at the start. We had very pretty, misty views back into the valleys of France. Our walking pace got us to Hunto and Orrison rather quickly, so we stopped here for a coffee and the last restroom break before the end of the day. By this point it was lightly raining and we put on our rain jackets and continued up into the mist and clouds. 

I am sure the views from this area are gorgeous, but we saw nothing but white 40 feet all around. This made for very little reason to stop and everyone was feeling very good so we kept going and got into an area of significant wind and mud. At its start was a food truck giving stamps and offering food and hot drinks for sale. We all were getting cold and could really have used the warmth, but we went on.  Soon the trail leveled into a very muddy road and crossed over into Navarra and Spain at the fountain of Roland. By this point there were about 10 of us all picking our way through the mud. Soon we began to see better and our Irish trio from Dublin passed us and made sure we followed the safer, less muddy way going down. This ended up being part road and part trail, but Roncevalles soon came in view as the sky cleared a bit and we could see the monastery and alberge. They have built a new very modern albergue here and it was amazing how nice it is. Dutch hospitaleros were volunteering and we soon got our bunks and showered and washed clothes. Also we went into the old alberge that is still set up as on large dorm room for overflow. For dinner, we had the pilgrim menu at La Posada, the restaurant that was used in the movie as the first alberge. It was a community dinner with a Catalan couple and our Aussie compadre. Soon we went to mass and received the pilgrim's blessing as millions before have as they started the pilgrimage in Spain. The priest then kindly gave all of us a tour of the crypt and the cloisters and the choir loft and finished the tour with a short video a pilgrim stating there had just made of his camino. Soon though we dragged ourselves back up to our beds and quickly went to sleep. 

I was so proud of how David did and how he talked so much with Jodi. It was fun to walk slightly ahead and listen to them talk about cultures and other topics. She is a psychologist that had a family wedding in late June in Paris, so decided to walk to Burgos on the Camino. She has been good company and David seems to enjoy the friendship. 

Day Two: Saint Jean

Today was our day to overcome jet lag and we did it by getting up and walking all over St Jean. This picture is the view from our hostel. We went to the pilgrim's office and got our starting stamp in the credential we must carry with us showing we are pilgrims. This has to be stamped each day in the places you eat, sleep, or go to church. Next we got a knife and the scallop shells that are the traditional symbol of the pilgrim. And then we walked all over town touring the citadel, museum. And other sights here. They are very proud of their Basque history, so we saw many signs of that around. Tomorrow is our hardest day so we are going to sleep now to wake early. We are both very eager to begin.

Day One: Paris and Saint Jean Pied du Port

Our adventure began as most of ours do; at the airport in Atlanta. We decided to have lunch at the Varsity and Pei Wei, both foods we do not expect to find on the Camino. We then spent the time sitting in the outdoor lounge getting sun and earth before the flight. Everything went off without a hitch and we were several movies later in Paris at the CDG airport. Here we got our train tickets to start one of the many rides to get to our destination. Our first train took us into the heart of Paris And our first stop at Notre Dame cathedral. Here we got the pilgrim's stamp in our credential. Next we walked along the Seine river to the Louvre and saw the glass pyramid and outside of the enormous museum. The day was perfect: sunny and just the right temperature for walking. Bayonne. 

Next stop was the Eiffel Tower, where a huge line had already formed to go up. A tennis tournament was also taking place here, and they had a clay cout set up in the middle of the park and a giant tennis ball hanging from the tower. As we passed the military college, we stopped to have breakfast of croissants and cafe au lait in a sidewalk cafe called the Cafe des les officers. A short walk from there was Napoleon's grave and the museum that surrounds it. But our final destination was the Gare Parnassee where we caught the TGV tran to Bayonne. 

These trains are very comfortable and we began snoozing and reading and looking at the passing scenery. On e we reached Bayonne, we took a bus the hour and a half to St Jean. This is a quiet, tourist town aimed at the pilgrims. Our hostel, the Gite Ultreia, has lovely host. We are getting good nights rest and then plan to expire.