Thursday, June 26, 2008

Lessons Learned

Here is my list of lessons learned having been home for 4 days and not been able to get the Camino off of my mind. I broke it into Personal and Practical (I am a gearie at heart).

Personal
  • A joint Camino is not the same as an individual Camino- Caroline and I did this trip together. As a 16 year old, she was the second youngest person we met (one 13 year old from New Zealand was also doing it). I realized that our experience here was all about sharing the experience. We were not there to really figure out some deep personal issue that would tell us what we wanted to do with the rest of our life. We were not paying back a debt or penance to speak of for some big sin. (Caroline once said in her early frustration with the albergues, "I am 16! I have not sinned enough in my life yet to have to do this kind of penance!) You need to make sure that if you are traveling with one other person, or choose to travel with a partner for the whole trip, that you adjust your expectations. It will be less soul searching, and more bonding.
  • Build in days for weather, rest, or to change groups- Most people plan a couple of days to rest or to sightsee in the bigger towns. But remember that somedays the weather may be so bad that it is advisable to just stay indoors. Or you find that you are traveling with a group of pilgrims that you can't related to well. One German friend described this as the "fog" you are in. He said he got into a group for awhile that he did not enjoy. He was surrounded by this fog of the same people talking about the same things. He took a rest day to change to a different group and for him it made all the difference. You may also find that you are in a very large group and that albergue space becomes difficult to find. This happened to us going to Finisterre. We were frustrated to find the Albergue completely full before 1:30 in the afternoon in Negreira. But friends that came through the next day, said that there was plenty of space. Rest a day and lose the crowds.
  • Share!- This kind of crosses over the line a bit with several things, but create an environment where you share stuff with other pilgrims. We shared a washer with three other people once because none of us had enough clothes to fill it up. One man was so touched by being asked to do this, he repeatedly offered to buy me a coffee. Buy food together. Or medicine. Or soap. Just always think about doing things together and you will build many more relationships and enjoy the Camino much more.
  • Talk/Eat- Along this same line is to break bread together and spend time talking to others. We had only two opportunities to share a hospitalero prepared meal, but these were great chances to talk to new people. We had several chances to cook with others and share a meal this way. And we went out to eat with others on a regular basis. These are the times you will cherish more than anything else. Take the time to talk and eat with others.
  • Santiago will be a let down- Understand this up front. Santiago is your goal and you are driving and fully focussed on getting there. It becomes your aim and your obsession. You cry when you think that you may not make it. But once you walk into the Plaza and up the steps and get past the excitement of your accomplishment, be prepared. Santiago is primarily a tourist town. The cathedral, the pilgrimage, the botofumerio are all there for tourists. Even we pilgrims are part of the spectacle. It is the busloads of pilgrims from the US, Italy, Portugal, etc. that pay to have the botofunerio swung. They don't do it for the pilgrim mass unless someone pays. But as Caroline learned, the journey is the real goal, not Santiago. It is the trip not the final destination. If you realize this, you will make sure to slow down and enjoy the Way much more than the goal.

Practical

  • Carry a light pack. I mean the pack itself. We both had packs under three pounds empty and most people we met had packs that must have weighed 5-6 lbs empty. The Camino does not require a pack that can go to Everest. Get an ultralight pack and you will be happier.
  • Carry only what you will need for a week. Meaning consumables. No roll of toilet paper. One pilgrim suggested a pack of tissues. You can buy more in any tienda. Same for soap, etc. We kept trying to have enough for the three weeks we were there, but realized, everyone is right, you can buy more of anything you need.
  • Clothes though are not always that easy to get. Caroline wanted to have an extra jacket because it was colder than we planned on. In Astorga, we hit every store that might possibly have a fleece jacket her size. After 2 hours, no luck. Just know for some items in the "performance clothing" area or if you are a small woman, they are not that easy to find.
  • Take into account jet lag- we began walking the day after we arrived in Leon, and stayed in the Albergue to boot. Caroline didn't get a full night's sleep for 4 days, and it just about cost us the trip. Take jet lag and getting used to the new environment into account. Your first few days will be much more enjoyable.
  • It will cost more than you expect- I had read the rule of thoumb that it would cost 1000 Euro for the entire Camino. Since we were doing half of it, I thought this was a good budget for us. I was wrong. I found we spent more of housing than planned and on food. Though you may plan to stay in Albergues the whole time, they may not always be available, so your 5Euro cost jumps to 15Euro is you share a room with someone.
  • Altus Atmospheric ponchos are great!- I would recommend them to any pilgrim.
  • No poles for me!- Though I am a big proponent of hiking poles and brought them on the trip, we almost never used them and they stayed on my pack most the trip. The terrain was not as rocky and steep as I expected and I was more prepared, plus wooden staffs are readily available. I would have loved to have gotten rid of the poles but it was too big of a hassle to send them to Santiago or home.
  • Put suntan lotion on the backs of your arms!!! We pilgrims always walk west. We get the sun on our necks and the backs of our arms. True lesson learned.
  • Internet time costs money- In the US, we do not regularly have coin operated PCs, so it was a bit of a shock to see how quickly you could burn some Euro on the Internet. At 1Euro for 30 minutes, we found it difficult to blog and check email, much less download photos. Budget accordingly.

And lastly, just consider doing something you never thought you could do. Like a pilgrimage; or a mission trip. Challenge yourself and hopefully your will enjoy the accomplishment of exceeding your expectations and the rewards the come from that. The average age of pilgrims on the Camino is probably 55. Don't think you are too old, or too busy to do something like this. We met a Dutchman in his sixties that was walking over 4000km; pulling a cart! I am sure Caroline will share her own relfections, but I hope that our pilgrimage and blog have entertained, enlightened, and inspired.

Thanks again.

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

So when do we get to hear about Caroline's lessons learned?

jonowales said...

excellent list; and "spot-on". you did however fail to mention the benefits of i) duct tape, ii) a sewing kit for blisters! iii) an elasticated clothes line which doesn't get stolen by a fellow pilgrim! and finally iv) (this is for "next time"!) a tent; so you can truly walk at your own pace and are beholden to no-one but your chosen camino partner.

A joy to have met, walked and set-the-world to rights with you both...safe travels on all the future Caminos that you undertake....

Caroline - get them to put a sidewalk in on your streets!

jonathan

Anonymous said...

thank you for sharing your lessons learned. Sounds like my packing list is on the mark. Now I will settle back and read your blog. Jane. (Australia)

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